The New Game Rules Of Black Tie Attire
The Game Changers
Ever since Lewis Hamilton attended the British GQ Men of the Year event in a shirtless tuxedo outfit, it must be obvious to even non-fashionistos that a lot has changed with black tie dress codes lately.
Wether we can thank a new breed of celebrities from, let’s say, less conservative branches that are now honorees of rather conservative award ceremonies, or blame it on a new discovered urge for individuality – we do not know. Former no-gos like tattoos, sneakers, and chunky man-jewelry are now spotted on red carpets, and it is socially quite alright. So, it’s a fact that more and more young gents are sparking up the golden rules of evening wear – and we love it.
So what are the new rules?
The good news is – there are no more rules, really. We definitely give credit to Daniel Craig rocking a classic offwhite dinner ensemble in the latest Bond movie “Spectre“, but let’s be honest, in real life this outfit would look rather common (and we avoid the word “boring” out of respect to phenomenal suit choices in the latest 007 movies) among all other classic formalwear options if not worn by Daniel or Sam at the movie premiere in London.
The bad news is – if you are not familiar with certain ground rules of Fashion you may end up standing out on your special night out – however, for the worse.
But do not worry, because we here at DARKOH recently put a small formalwear collection together that reflects the latest trends in tuxedos and dinner jackets that will square you away in the most sophisticated way possible.
In addition, we sat down and put together a little guideline to go by because, remember – even though there are no more strict rules one can go extremely off by wearing too much, too little, or just the wrong combo.
1. Tuxedo or Dinner jacket
The choice is yours, actually. Remember, that a tuxedo (and it includes the trousers with the satin trim) will always look more formal; after all, it’s a suit.
If you want to avoid the cliche of a black tie attire outfit then try a tonal look by wearing a tone in tone shirt / tux combo but stick with dark colors, preferably black or navy blue.
Don’t go fancy on the bowtie thinking you now need to spark up with some colors. Stick to the same tone bow-tie if at all; alternatively try a scarf with a distinctive woven in pattern.
We combined our black diamond patterned tuxedo with our black fine cotton tuxedo shirt to create this sophisticated look.
Trendsetters like Tom Ford and Dolce & Gabbana (and as huge followers we take pride in mentioning these amazing designers in our blog) have shown that textures of velvet and metallic weaving and embroidery are very much ok. The secret of making a fashionable statement is to keep everything else simple.
Velvet always leaves a rather elegant vintage impression so best is to go basic with the rest.
We combined our maroon velvet dinner jacket with flat-front tuxedo pants and a black pleated tux shirt.
For a more classic look you can exchange the black shirt with a white wingtip or turn down collar shirt; however, keep accessories simple and preferably black.
Brokat jackets are an absolute fashion trend this season. Do yourself a favor by not wearing a whole brokat suit unless you want to revive a 80s’ Purple Rain era. Stick to the same rules by keeping everything around the jacket simple and slim fitted.
For our two brokat ensembles, we used satin trimmed tuxedo pants and optionally black and white for the shirt.
If you would like to add your personal touch to it then combine it with your favorite blingbling (preferably silver unless you are wearing black) or a watch or wallet chain. It will give it that classy-man look. We accented our look with jewelry from Eins Berlin and cufflinks from S.T. Dupont.
Yes, we know that wingtip shirts are common for formalwear but we are in the mids of overturning these rules, right?
The good news is that turn down collars and tight neat pleats are absolutely ok. Loose the 70s ruffles, or better, forget them at all.
Choose a shirt with covered front placket for a more casual look and pick the one with front studs for that real real formal occasion.
French cuffs is a must, or how else can you show off your absolutely sophisticated cufflinks while smoothly correcting your sleeves, right?
If you like to try out something trendy then combine an elegant maroon tuxedo shirt with a black suit combination, and believe us when we say that you will look and feel as if “you got this”.
What is a perfect red-carpet like appearance without a smart overcoat that indicates the “watch-out-now” contents.
Any coat style is possible starting from capes, wraps to classic double or single breasted fronts; however, stick to solid black for the color.
For a fashionable statement, go with a fur trimmed lapel or hood like this DARKOH overcoat to give it an exclusive Aspen style look.
4. Bow ties
Here, we will stick with that one important Golden rule – always tie your bow tie. According to GQ, there is no excuse to wear a pre-tied tie, not if you want to look and feel dapper; and believe us when we say, it is easy to learn.
Also, the choice of color should always go with the color of your basics (black, preferably) or your lapel (satin with satin; grosgrain with grosgrain).
How to get away with..a basic black suit.
The only time we recommend wearing a patterned bow tie is when your black suit serves as your formal suit (which is totally legal but avoid wearing notch lapels!) and you use accessories to give it an elegant and sophisticated look.
Always use a matching pocket square, always.
Of course we have little helpers for these occasions, so check out these Brokat bow tie sets with matching satin lined pocket squares in six different colors.
A few brands such as Goletz-bowties, or ProSac AlwaySmile have started to offer interesting pre-tied bow-tie variations made out of textures like metal, leather, wood or plexiglas with feather and jewelry applications.
If you are a fashion pro and you know your style then they are a great alternative to contemporary neckwear.
If you already have your shiny patent leather shoes in your closet then do not worry, they are still ok to wear.
However, the latest fashion trend indicates a tendency to Oxfords and slippers in velvet and suede with or without distinctive embroideries or attachments on the front.
Many influencers are spotted with classic Chelsea boots, which are absolute hip right now, and we say why not?
One last thing…
Ditch the tuxedo from a rental.
Yes, we do understand the ratio between investment and efficiency assuming you may only wear something that chic once or twice a year.
However, the most essential aspect in formal wear (and with suits in general) is a good fit because the allover shape will determine the yea or nea response.
Many celebrities (and we are not pointing fingers) were unfortunate to experience a rather negative moment on the red carpet despite the expensive designer suit and a paid stylist simply because the outfit was adjusted or even worse – worn as-is.
And, as we all know there surely was a pre-Tom Ford Jay-Z and a pre-Prada Sam Smith, so we truly appreciate and enjoy the post-era of both celebrities.
This is why we take pride in providing custom made suits for our celebrity placements whenever we can within the deadline, as recently done with internet star Brock O’Hurn and Black-ish star Marcus Scribner .
As our client we will always give you the same VIP attention and care. Therefore we provide a MTM service** for a 25% surcharge on your order, which beats the average price for a custom made style at any time.
Simply email us once you have ordered your item online and we will guide you through the procedure.
( ** all MTM orders are non-refundable and non-changeable. Minor alterations [max $25 value] are subject to be refunded in exchange to alteration receipt. Delivery time between 2-3weeks depending on bulk of order and shipping address)